environmental transparency - the future for the sports industry

Environmental transparency – the future for the sports industry

Environmental work in the sports industry has evolved over the years. It used to be enough to just make durable products that would last a long time. But now there is a new level of transparency expected from the supply chain. Both companies and consumers have become savvy and have begun looking at environmental issues at a deeper level. By examining what we do, we begin to know the consequences of our actions. Much of the damage to the environment is done either unintentionally, through ignorance, or by willfully ignoring the chain of decisions that lead to bad results. Thus examination, exploration and transparency of the resources needed to manufacture products are critical. The news isn’t always good but once we know, we can take action to resolve the problems. “If you don’t know, you don’t care.”


Environmental work in the sports industry has evolved over the years. It used to be enough to make durable products that would last a long time. Since users of outdoor products play hard and are often exposed to the harshest of weather conditions, there are a lot of expectations put on the gear they buy. Over the years, the quality of all sorts of gear has improved significantly. There has been innovation in synthetic fibers mimicking and improving upon the best characteristics from the natural fibers and natural fibers enjoying a renaissance. If the improvements weren’t geared towards the increasing of performance features they were often geared towards increasing durability. Environmental characteristics were mainly explained through the durability of a product. Though it is still a valid environmental point, it is no longer enough to have this element be the leading explanation for an environmental product.

Both companies and consumers have become savvy and have begun looking at environmental issues at a deeper level. And now there is a new level of transparency expected from the supply chain. There has been a slow emergence of concern over environmental issues in the past 20 years. The first work was done with companies donating to NGO’s working to preserve natural places. The environmental concern then grew to include the buyer of the product. Eco-labels were developed that ensured the user that certain chemicals are not present on the product but did little to ensure the same chemicals weren’t actually used in the process. This had the advantage of protecting the end user but perhaps not the worker in the textile mills. As environmental protection laws in all countries around the world have become stronger there has been more and more work actually going further back into the supply chain. Many companies have developed restricted substance lists that are based on the various pieces of worldwide legislation. This is a great beginning as it begins to implement environmental protection for the employees working with the processing chemicals. But consumers expect more. There needs to be research and development done with environmental filters in place so that new products that are developed for performance have the environmental considerations built in from the beginning.

By examining what we do, we begin to know the consequences of our actions. Much of the damage to the environment is done either unintentionally, through ignorance, or by willfully ignoring the chain of decisions that lead to bad results.
We have to be willing to ask the hard questions. No longer does it make sense to say, “Ignorance is bliss”! The consequences of staying ignorant are too great and we are seeing them in our world and climate every day now. Not taking any action is also a decision.

Thus examination, exploration and transparency of the resources needed to manufacture products are critical. We have seen the evolution of performance research and development and now the time has come for environmental research and development. In some ways, the environmental work in the industry is where the performance work was 15-20 years ago. We wouldn’t have dreamt of being able to fine tune the performance of fabrics like we can today with weight, waterproofness air permeability, etc. The same type of scrutiny and detail work on environmental issues sits before us. It is no longer acceptable to tell consumers the chemical information is proprietary.

This is where the bluesign® standard sets in. The unique and revolutionary approach of the bluesign® standard is based on experience and industrial expertise and starts at the other end of production. Instead of analyzing final products to ensure that certain chemicals are not present, components and raw materials are assessed. Each component is given a rating based on its eco-toxicological impact. Harmful substances can thus be excluded even before production begins. Only components and raw materials that pose no risk to the people or the environment are allowed for production. Manufacturers now have the ability to consciously select the best components, not only for their product, but also for the people and the environment.

Our responsibilities toward the consumer and the environment go even further. It’s not enough to simply consider consumer safety. Environmental considerations must also include other aspects besides consumer safety. Water emission, air emission, occupational health and resource productivity are as important as consumer protection and are also considered during the rating process. Environmental protection is only possible, if all relevant aspects are considered – before, during and after production.

Knowing what chemicals are used during production and what impact they have on the environment on every level is the first step to meet the required transparency. The next step is to focus on the actual processes and technologies used during production. Besides the actual manufacturing processes that are often resource intensive, end-of-pipe solutions are of a particular interest to ensure no harmful substances are dumped in the next river polluting it or released to the air adding to global warming. The product is no longer the only concern during production, but rather the overall outcome including waste water and air emission must be considered.

Once all this information is available, the resource situation of a mill can be considered and compared to the “Best Available Technology”. During production, where decisions on resource usage, processes and operations are made, a simple tool for eco-efficient manufacture must be provided that also allows minimizing resource consumption which in turn helps reducing costs. Transparency thus not only helps to take care of all environment, health and safety issues in the production and to locate resource and cost saving potentials, it’s also a means to build credibility and trust for the consumer. Creating transparency and proactively responding to critical questions from NGO’s and the environmentally aware consumer will be crucial for future success.

The new website by Patagonia, The Footprint Chronicles, gives an example of one way to communicate transparency. It isn’t always easy to be transparent, even when the desire is strong to do so. Patagonia has found a voice that suits them with this website and has ambitions to continually add new products. It is a website that is meant to engage the customers but also to be used a public report card of the work that is being done.

The news isn’t always good but once something is known, action can be taken to resolve the problems. “If you don’t know, you don’t care.” is a motto that can be considered when trying to decide if it is worth doing the investigation.